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This Is How it All Started

Tonight is the (digital) show of the Fashion Department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp, including the 2021 graduates and that makes me think back to the show in 2001, then still held in beautiful Handelsbeurs in the center of Antwerp (tip: bring it back there please). The finale was done by 4th year student Serkan Sarier (meanwhile working as a contemporary artist, a thing that was written in the stars seeing his concepts and the limits of fashion) and he blew everybody away with his full on romantic vision of ballet girls ‘on pointe’ and his genius designs and draping.

‘Ballet Room’ by Antonio Paladino for Serkan Sarier, shot at Het kanaal in Wijnegem, owned by Axel and Boris Vervoordt

Not only did he show out of this world beauty on ballerinas and models, he also played Shostakovich at full volume. Cue thousands of visitors with tears in their eyes, filled with this vision of pure beauty. Including me.

But what happened next, was not me at all: at the bar afterwards, people started to excuse themselves for appearing so emotional over such clichés, claiming they had too much to drink, etc. I was livid: why not admit it when you’re touched by such a wonderful show?

Photo from the graduation show of Serkan Sarier in Antwerp (2001), shot by Etienne Tordoir/Catwalk Pictures

I went home and wrote the following manifest:

When was the last time your breath was taken away by some amazing sight or sound? When you felt gooseflesh creeping all the way up your arms and tears filling your eyes just because something was so unbelievably beautiful? And after that, what happened? Could you admit the feeling to yourself and -heaven forbid- to others as well? Without cracking jokes about getting old and sentimental? Good, because honest appreciation of all things beautiful is the way forward.

While researching this story I talked to a lot of people -fashion professionals and others- about the subject and all, with the exception of one- who understood beauty without ironing (!)- knew exactly what I was on about and agreed with me fully: its very relaxing to finally drop that cool front and admit you love seeing fine paintings, haute couture and ballet, you like to listen to classical music once in a while -harmonic melodies are easy on the ears after all- and even romantic sunsets, newborn puppies and other so -called clichés have a certain appeal. They’re not clichés for nothing, right?

Enjoying beauty is firstly a very physical experience, almost scarily so. Remember sitting on a football terrace with loads of enthusiastic fans, or being present at the singing of the national hymn -you, as a cool person, of course kept your lips firmly sealed- and you couldn’t help but feeling moved by the singing masses? Admit it and it feels even better. All that gooseflesh and those dilated pupils, rapid heartbeats and deep breathing must be good for something.

Before you all rush out now and become nationalistic hooligans (don’t believe the hype, you fools!), what I’d really like to plead for is a more private joy of beauty, one to be found in abundance in the arts, fashion and music. More and more so in fact. I mean, how far can you go with destruction? Decibels? Irony? Or the mother of all cowards, sarcasm? Let’s all just sit at home or in a ‘trendy’ bar dressed in our ironic trashed & customized outfits and complain, shall we? That’ll teach the world a thing or two. Except, I don’t think so.

With a little help from my friends
Of course there’s more to this renewed interest of -and appreciation for- beauty than just nice clothes, paintings and music: it’s a general feeling among people of wanting to help out each other as much as possible, of friendship, support and admiration for each other’s work and efforts. While big conglomerates thrive on competition and one-upmanship, young designers and other creatives like photographers, stylists, graphic designers and DJ’s form small groups that are forever changing and networking (read: partying) in an informal way, having fun, doing their own thing and getting noticed in the process. No pushiness, no hypes, no competition, no big dreams of ruling the world

OK, maybe secretly at night, when no-one’s looking), just wanting to create something that’s unique, honest, instinctive and -here it comes again- beautiful. In the eye of the beholder. Because together with this new appreciation of beauty also comes a new definition of what beauty really is. Symmetry, as science tried to teach us for decades? Humbug. Give us imperfection and gapped teeth any day. Gloss and perfection? Aaaaarrrrggghhhh! Who hasn’t seen a grainy black & white photo of a big town backstreet and thought: now that’s really beautiful? Without trying to be clever, just because you were touched by the image? Honesty, passion, creativity and humility -yeah, that old chestnut pops up again too- are what count and all I can hope is that this won’t be a passing trend like so many others before. You may say that I’m a dreamer, but I surely am not the only one… Go on, admit it, you really like beauty that way. Feel better already?

This was the birth of creative platform of social change Beauty without Irony, which went on to organise projects and exhibitions such as Designers against AIDS, the IHAEC education center in Antwerp, Air/Port in Essaouira and Antwerp- and now Beauty for a Better World.

Because beauty is worth fighting and feeling for!

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Optimism and beauty will save the world

Photo: Charlie De Keersmaecker

There are people that can turn every heartbreaking event of their life into an act of positivity -and Ninette Murk is definitely one of them. The founder and creative director at Designers Against AIDS (DAA) and creative platform for social change Beauty Without Irony (BWI), Murk created DAA as a tribute to her assistant, Peter, who died of an AIDS-related illness; and BWI as a response to the cynical outlook the fashion business was adopting –being a fashion journalist she was experiencing it big time.
20 years later, both foundations are going from strength to strength, with DAA successfully collaborating with leading and popular fashion brands, designers and celebrities such as H&M, Eastpak, JBC, Delvaux, Marc Jacobs, Bernhard Willhelm, Rihanna, Timbaland, Robert Smith from The Cure, Pharrell Williams and Kendall Jenner. In 2013 Murk relaunched BWI as a creative platform for social change, staging exciting international exhibitions in Essaouira (Morocco) and Antwerp (Belgium).

Today, in a world experiencing the aftermaths of the corona pandemic and in the midst of the #blacklivesmatter protests in the US and Europe, Murk’s creative optimism appears the only way to go forward. Indeed, her full body of work is a celebration of pure beauty, idealism and lust for life -a lust that overcomes all obstacles to support a good cause –and makes a positive change to the world. Here, she speaks about DAA, her more recent project ‘Beauty for a Better World’- and how eternal optimism in action can save the world.

Tell us a bit about your most recent projects, especially Beauty for a Better World?

Beauty for a Better World was a very early project of mine that started with the Twin Towers incident and the overall world apocalypse that happened -and didn’t really get the attention it deserved. I then went on to found Designers against AIDS, a project that became very famous -and got media attention especially after our 5 years lasting global H&M collaboration. Many designers contributed, in fact, we have a vast archive of work that represents our mission. Meanwhile, I wanted to reboot my beauty & art projects, as I feel the perception of beauty in the world is important-but most donations were made to DAA just because the initiative has gained so much publicity. I don’t think that’s bad, naturally, I just felt I needed to do something involving beauty-and thus restarted it. We have a great team of high profile and talented people both in the fashion and media industry that are passionate about our mission. I believe in beauty -in fact, the process of choosing your most beautiful artwork of all to be exhibited on behalf of BFBW has been cathartic even for the artists themselves.

Your work deals a lot with beauty and happiness through awareness and responsibility. How do you define the idea of responsibility in the fashion industry? What’s missing in terms of ethics right now?

Every company (not only in fashion!) should make sure that it’s being fair on every level of their process- towards their employees, customers, suppliers, ad /media agency, shareholders – and also to the planet. The focus right now for many businesses is mainly about making as much money as possible, cutting costs wherever they can. This is not sustainable and it certainly is not human.

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Kendall Jenner and Neville Jacobs (dog of Marc Jacobs) in one of the T-shirts he designed to benefit Designers against AIDS. This project by LOVE Magazine also featured Gigi Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski and Cara Delevingne

What is the greatest lesson fashion must learn from the coronavirus epidemic?

Fashion must slow down, its more imperative now than it has been some years ago. The fashion schedule with so many shows a year and countless meetings and fast fashion production are destroying nature, the most important thing we have-and thus our wellbeing and future. There are solutions: reduce the schedule, produce less and better quality clothes that are ethically made, and make your supply chain as transparent as possible. Full transparency is needed. I am also a member of GWAND, a Swiss Festival for Sustainable fashion and have learned a lot from these people-advocates of sustainability in a creative and not boring, fun way! Sustainable fashion isn’t anymore how it was some years ago -the clothes are actually very nice, stylish and more accessible price-wise.

The #Blacklivesmatter movement is causing a stir right now. How can fashion brands fully embrace diversity?

They must mean it! Not many brands are actually investing in diversity in their staff roles or ensure equal pay rates. They must hire more black people, promote and consult them. Diversity in fashion is not a new concept, in the past, Benetton and their photographer Oliviero Toscani have been successfully embracing it with great vision and commercial success. The Benetton clothes were just brightly coloured basics, but the message, the awareness, the brand ethics were powerful. They talked about AIDS, racism, everything that matters. Diversity also means more representation in terms of sizes. Brands must embrace diversity and actually mean it as a long term strategy-don’t just add a plus-size model to gain attention but then not do anything groundbreaking. You don’t brush off the need to show diversity and inclusivity just by stating it or posting #blacklivesmatter on your Facebook page.

So, how does it feel being an eternal optimist?

This is more part of who I am, more of my attitude towards life than a structured philosophy. I have been through a lot the recent years in terms of personal health and have managed to get through them smiling and with optimism. You see, I may occasionally feel pain or get a low mood, but then I focus on all the great things I am blessed to have: a nice life, a house with a beautiful garden, a great husband and an invaluable circle of friends. Those are priceless -and that’s how we all should face life.

Ballet Room by Antonio Paladino
Graduation collection of Serkan Sarier at the Antwerp Academy (2001), photo by Antonio Paladino -the start of the Beauty Without Irony project
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The Dita Von Teese- designed T-shirt for DAA’s first global Fashion against AIDS collection with H&M.

First published in The Style Title